Bouldering grip strength reddit. Most grip trainers are semi useless.

Bouldering grip strength reddit. My grip fails on certain holds. = STW (Strength-to-Weight ratio) What grade can they climb? As we previously found in past Grippul Challenges, Most climbers who are bouldering double digits between V10-V14 were able to pull 100%-130% of their body weight on the 15 degree crimp. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. Anyone have any advice on improving grip strength besides just climbing? Do those handheld spring loaded grip training tools actually work? /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. What is the optimal way apart from climbing "pinch" routes to get the tendons / muscles stronger in this area? I've been reading a lot about pinch blocks, my question is how do you train with pinch blocks, is it better to train really heavy (for optimal strength) or is it better to train mid weight and get some good endurance in those pinches? I feel my pinch is lacking compared to other areas You'd be surprised how much coordination goes, probably a lot of what's missing is the coordination and control. I also reviewed the popular grip trainers for this post, so read on if you want to find out! Are Climbing Grip Trainers actually any good for climbers and boulderers? Yes grip trainers can improve your grip strength even when working a desk based job. Obviously you will progress faster if you take a more targeted approach to training than just Strength-to-Weight Formula Finger Strength (lb) / Body Weight (lb). Incorporate various grip types, such as open hand, crimp, and pinch, to target different muscles. This involves a hard session of fingerboard and campus board and pinch grip exercises done in a sort of superset rotation. The muscular strength and tendon strength will develop in due time, focus on the things you can control right now and improve those. These adapters can turn any exercise into a grip exercise. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. Has anyone felt like the grip trainers are fun but don't carry over to real world grip strength? /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. It mimics using a fat bar/axle while being cheaper and portable. you should also include finger extensor exercises. I'll be climbing on jugs and my fingers start to feel completely like jelly and I can't grip the holds at all. Efficiency is as much of a factor as the raw strength and endurance. Thanks for your answers! Grip strength geek here. I have a good back and pulling strength but lack of grip strength is holding me back. Your view around weight loss for climbing are not based in reality and insanely unhealthy. Been gym climbing for about 8 months, I'm only working up to 5. For example, take the intermediate slopers on the BM2000 and hang at the edge with an open grip. Just go climb a lot, focus on improving your technique. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. Jan 19, 2024 · Climbing strength vs climbing resistance When talking about building climbing strength, we are basically talking about a whole lot of specific exercises that will help grow our overall performance. Considering the number of joints involved in any given hold, that basically means you only really gain isometric strength for the exact hold being trained. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Try to find someone to coach you a bit, give you technique advice and critique your technique while climbing. I'm not doing any fingerboard or anything like that for several months, but I am doing hangs and farmers' walks to increase grip strength + the other benefits they have for shoulder mobility/strength and tension for heavy farmers Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. You can check out r/climbharder for specific finger training and hangboard routines. Switch between the Jun 3, 2025 · Incorporating grip strength into a training program depends on your level and training goals. This all keeps the muscles balanced which reduces chance for injury. 11 votes, 26 comments. I Boulder V2 and climb 5. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Most grip trainers are semi useless. 5 years of consistent climbing under your belt- it’s very easy to injure yourself hangboarding if your tendons haven’t had time to adapt yet. If you want to improve your grip strength I would reccomend a lot of projecting, this will force you to use your grip, leading to strengthening and improve your technique (which is arguably more important than grip strength). Built a little routine to train it, want some critique. I'm I was a rock climbing for 5 years and while my grip was better than average, I wasn’t spectacular at holding onto deadlifts. Reply reply [deleted] • r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Unlike an axle bar, it can even be used with dumbbells. The training can be intensive and repetitive, so do it in small doses and only once you’ve built a decent base of strength from general bouldering. All of those things felt like they really kickstarted my grip strength more than grippers. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out there. Translates into contact strength, slopey crimp strength, and big boi sloper strength. 9s. Not only will you not be able to adhere to a 1000 calorie per day diet, but you will also quickly lose muscle and strength as your body will go into starvation mode and begin consuming its own muscle. So I decided to start training properly. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Now start leaning back and try to file you weight . Hӧrst encourages climbers to focus on 6 different grip positions: the half/open crimps, open hand, wide pinch, and three 2-finger pocket positions. Recently got into rock climbing. I would caution against hangboarding until you have about 1. As for off-the-wall strengthening you can hangboard, to reduce the load initially you could use a rubber band or use a bigger edge, although if you struggle with hanging A place for posting and discussing Grip Strength, including but not limited to feats of grip strength, grip or arm lifting competitions, technique critiques and hints and tips. AND that climbing with compromised grip strength leads to injury. Just be careful, its easy to over do it with grip/finger training. It will build muscle, and it will burn calories (although weight loss is won in the kitchen). When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger strength gains. I recently started finger rolls as a rehab exercise and specifically started more isolated forearm exercises like wrist curls in order to address some weakness in open hand strength on slopers and compression climbing. I'm looking for some advice and discussion on significantly increasing grip strength for rock climbing. While a few weeks is not long enough to guage it's usefulness personally, I've noticed some more confidence in grip strength. A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. How to train grip strength Of all the physical components that contribute to your climbing ability, none is more important than grip strength. There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. While it doesn't help with grip strength per se, it helps keep my fingers/joints from hurting when climbing a lot of days in a row. 8. Routines Basic Routine Mass Building Increase Deadlift Grip Bodyweight and Calisthenics Rock Climbing (Hangboard) Grappling Martial Arts Grippers Arm Wrestling Cheap and Free Grip Training I just want something to do at my desk - (this post is in the other thread) Other Wiki Topics How to get started Grip on a To add my own 2 cents: Bouldering is a great workout. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Hello, well that is the question. Pinching them directly in the middle will force you to constantly stabilize them as you walk. Any recommendations for wrist, grip, and finger exercises to get a… Redditors generally agree that bouldering can be a great workout for overall strength, particularly targeting the back, shoulders, and core muscles. After his initial grip, he is extremely mindful of where he is putting his feet and how he is shifting his weight. definitely just keep climbing! try a large variety of routes and boulders and you’ll see big grip strength gains in no time. 69 votes, 43 comments. I’m all on board the strength train when it comes to slopers: four and three fingers open hand, plus wrist, shoulder, chest, and upper back/lat strength. Its less about grip strength and more about tendon strength which develops incredibly slow and tendons also heal slow if you injure them, your priority as a beginner should be developing good footwork and body positioning. A lot of climbers use a hang board to increase there grip strength and endurance, would this be good to transfer over to wrestling or would it just be a waste of time? Long story short, grip strength will not come quickly, it's built over time, and even further climbing grip strength specifically is all over the place, the best way to train it is on the wall. If they exist, what is typical for say grades V6 -V11/12? At my gym v7 is where technique becomes a must if you dont have hulk level grip strength Theres a few v7 starts at my gym right now that felt impossible to do the first move, or even hold the start, until i figured out the right body positioning. If you can't get to the climbing wall/crag often enough, you could do some hangboarding, but only if access to climbing is what limits the amount of training you can do. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. See full list on climbing. I’ve been at this for about a month and absolutely love it. It utilizes all: fingers, thumb, and even some wrist strength. I feel like my technique has improved a lot, but I always end up bailing due to grip fatique -- my forearms eventually just give out. There’s a lot of technique in sloper climbing, but those same positions are often murder on your shoulders, so it helps to have good movement/mobility and strength in very wide positions. If I get to this point it means my grip strength is giving up before the rest of my body did, which means I've been overgripping, and I try to make it a point to focus on using less grip strength during my next session. I have read that you can either improve your pinch grip (wide or narrow) through climbing routes with the grips you are trying to improve or by doing hangboarding/no hangs with the grips you wish to train. trueHey all — new caliber here. However, there are great forearm exercise that you can do that are low impact and great for endurance training. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Rope climbing, using a towel or a gi (if ur a martial arts boi) to do pulling exercises, fat grips (a silicone attachment for bars to make it thicker), farmer walks/carries, wrist flexion exercises, crushing grip exercises (COC hand grippers are great), pinching strength exercises (plate pinches or you can make ur own pinch grip attachment outta wood: look on youtube), deadhangs/active hangs I found hanging onto slopers with only the first pad of your fingers to be great training. A lot of the strength and endurance required for climbing is unique to climbing and difficult to get from other sports. All the pro climbers are relatively slight, because climbing requires excellent grip and tendon strength, but not much absolute strength. It's one group in a (likely) 3-4 grip routine, so it doesn't take that much extra time. As opposed to endurance or hypertrophy. 14 votes, 14 comments. My advice is: please don't. I don't think I'm quite up for hangboard training yet, and I don't want to hurt myself. Jun 15, 2023 · These boards feature holds that are grouped into uniform sets and laid out on a symmetrical grid, thus enabling you to target grip-strength for specific types of holds, such as pinches. Meh I disagree, grip strength and crimp strength can definitely be a limiting factor and I don’t think you can really develop that without climbing. Hand strength and strong arms are helpful but his knowledge is why he can do this while others of similar upper body strength cannot. Grip training when you've only been climbing for a week is like putting race tires on a VW bus. About a year ago, I began indoor bouldering (rock climbing) and coming from a swimming/lifting background my grip strength is severely lagging. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. I don't know if that really makes sense but I'd like to know what is your experience! Thank you! I salute you from Argentina, land of Messi and Charly Garcia! Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort The single biggest obstacle to my progression onto harder climbs has been grip endurance. I started Tl;Dr: there are different types of strength, for instance, a guy who carries bricks all day might have better grip strength than a weightlifter and in this case they might have better balance, grip endurance and grip to weight ratio, so brick carrying "strength" would transfer better to climbing than weightlifting in this imaginary scenario. I understand that grip strength and finger strength are important for bouldering, and mine is pretty weak right now. My question to the people of climbharder is: What way was the most efficient for you to improve your pinch grip? Was it through climbing routes Reddit's rock climbing training community. The closed crimp provides (some sources say) 17% increase in grip strength from an open crimp. Here’s how you improve it. Kind of a 2x4 farmers walk. Jan 1, 2025 · To increase grip strength for rock climbing, focus on exercises like hangboard training and wrist curls. One of the best ways is to go on walks while pinching a 2x4 (8 feet long) in each hand. You have plenty of finger strength to hoist your entire body up at 10s, haha, I don't think it's a finger strength problem, although more finger strength can help you get away with more climbing mistakes. Utilize grip strength tools like grip trainers or tennis balls for specific conditioning. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Mar 25, 2022 · Plus 10 bouldering Tired of your home-wall workouts or of sending the same boulder problems at the gym? Strap on a 10-pound weight belt and you’ll have a powerful grip-strength and power workout! After an extended warm-up, climb a circuit of five to 10 moderate boulder problems (a few V-grades below your limit). While reading this sub and other sources I realize that most climbers/boulderers mostly train for strength. You could probably sum up climbing prowess from strength, flexibility and technique. My fingers were strong as fuck though. It's most important to note, a closed crimp doesn't put you at much more risk than an open crimp, but a closed crimp does increase the risk for injuries, particularly with pulleys. What would you consider the most important of them to train (if you had to only pick one due to time constraints) in order to move forward? Gonna make a table of contents so we don't have to scroll through this whole page. It's possibly a grip duel device, kinda like arm-wrestling, but for grip strength. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). Bottomline is, even if grip strength is as important as you're making it out to be, what evidence do you have that hangboarding is more effective at building finger strength than simply climbing? r/climbharder climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. Check it out! You want to spend every ounce of your training capacity climbing, which will improve your grip strength, but also your movement vocabulary and general technique. If you could only do one exercise for grip, fat bar work will give the best bang for the buck. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. Will rock climbing instead of gym grip exercises produce similar results for general gripping strength and endurance? A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. That is, low rep, high intensity with progressive overload, eg 5x5 pullups with weights etc. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip - Even if your grip strength is absolutely terrible, static hangs aren't the ideal exercise right now (until you're really working on problems at the gym that require grip strength, avoid hang boards all together). From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip I actually do antagonist exercises with rubber bands while at work reading documents and such. Climbing and pull exercises alone can be pretty taxing without additional training. I currently weigh ~175lbs and deadlift 485 (455 with switch grip, no straps) which seems like reasonable grip strength for my weight. The most precise definition of strength in rock climbing or bouldering is the ability to hold on to various holds, but a strong rock climber doesn’t only have a great grip. Unless that’s what you mean by “support your own body weight” Reply reply TheBigSchmoJoe • I investigated a bit, and tried to find out as much as possible. Reddit's rock climbing training community. We have a similar device at our gym, it's very fun way to get a pulley injury Regardless, yeah just keep climbing. Feb 17, 2023 · I train climbing grip strength one day a week only. If you learn correct technique right Open a door , stand in front of the latch side , approx 50cm (or more if you feel comfortable) bend your legs and pinch 🤏 grip the door. I have very strong upper body strength, but my hands/fingers have very weak grip strength because my fingers are so loose & flexible. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. : r/bodyweightfitness     Go to bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness Reddit's rock climbing training community. This is the single most important aspect for a beginning climber. If you If you can’t get to the bouldering gym more than once a week, you should definitely strengthen your grip in between then! Just be careful, and recognize the best strength training exercise to improve bouldering is bouldering. Im a little disappointed with my actual grip strength after today's battle ropes workout. Strength is important but you will gain enough strength from just focusing on climbing rather than workouts right now. . That said, grip strength for climbing is a bit different as its locking you fingers and not crushing in your hand. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Aug 14, 2021 · If you want to increase your grip strength, you’ll need to train on specific grip positions. That said, I still struggle immensely with smaller, thinner holds. I’ve noticed my form improve and I e gone from struggling with simple V2s to mastering tougher v3s. Then when you run out of pinch strength, using the same hand position put them over (but not touching) your shoulders as in a military press. You can get very strong just bouldering 2-3x per week, it will build very good core and pulling strength in addition to the obvious grip strength. Is this something that’ll naturally improve as I progress or is there something I should be doing to target it? Things like grip strength and being confident enough to relax your grip enough to not wear yourself out can be just as important as raw strength early on. For beginners and those in their second season, bouldering is a great way to build grip strength. When training your grip strength (which is mostly reliant on isometric forearm strength), you only gain strength around ~15 degrees of the angles of the joints being trained. I'd like to try climbing boulders but it I would like to loose flexibility or dexterity of my fingers and affect my guitar playing in a negative way. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. How to improve grip strength and underarm power without climbing What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. However, some users suggest incorporating additional exercises or routines to complement the climbing experience and achieve a more complete workout. Climbing is all about manipulating your body and smaller guys have a greater strength to weight ratio. Before obtaining that It depends on your discipline (sport/bouldering) and what your climbing projects are, but generally I'd make the time to train the open hand on the hangboard. Going double overhand on deadlifts, using thickbars/fatgrips, pinching and curling plates. That being said, if you have consistent back pain, PLEASE see a doctor before bouldering or climbing. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. Concentrate on climbing each problem with crisp technique and smooth execution Grip strength/finger and hand strength help I'm very new to bouldering but am enjoying it a lot! I've been going once or twice a week for about a month and a half. I feel like past… Grip strength helps feel safe and go longer, biceps strength at full extension helps on overhangs, but core strength (being able to keep tension throughout your body as you climb) constantly comes up as the #1 thing you will always use. These may include functional strength training, antagonist training, and exercises targeting the I use them to just keep my crushing grip strength equivilant to my climbing strength. With that information in mind, when do you think I should train pinches or shouldn't I train them at all? It doesn't seem like a good idea to train grip strength on the days I don't climb, but the training quality would probably not be that good after 3 hours of climbing, either. I was wondering if anyone has figure out a way to increase grip strength for things like rock climbing when they have hypermobility in their hands/fingers? Hello there, I started climbing about 10 months ago, got addicted and I feel like reached my first plateau. My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). I have been trying to improve my pinch grip. Hi, So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. Something I really struggle with is grip strength - as soon as a hold is anything other than the very easiest ones to hold onto I just fall straight off. Allthough they are still fun to dabble with for me. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. So just have fun and get up as many routes/boulders as you can. com Nov 4, 2016 · I've taken up bouldering once a week to work on strength for climbing, but find I have trouble completing any of the problems on the indoor wall I've been practicing on. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. llhgf kmxv wrde xfvk ntdx eeop oizux rbysvh smcecw eaulp